The sixth highest peak in the world and, of the 14 peaks over 8000 meters, has the highest success rate. Because it is perhaps the easiest of the 8000 meter summits, it is quite popular and there can be many expeditions on the mountain at one time. The normal (Tichy) route climbs from the Tibetan side. The peak is commonly climbed in both the pre and post-monsoon season. Most expeditions allow about 6 weeks, Kathmandu to Kathmandu. The spring season schedule normally has climbers beginning their expedition in the first 2 weeks of April, and finishing it in the last 2 weeks of May. The fall season starts in early September and runs to mid-October. Success rates are similar in either season.

Summary
The trip begins in Kathmandu. After a rest sightseeing day there we begin our drive into Tibet. We take a rest day in Nylam to acclimate then continue to the old Chinese Base Camp in two more days. This camp is about 15 miles from Advance Base Camp (ABC) which is reached in two days of trekking. We establish 3 camps above ABC. Camp 1 (21,000') is reached by trail in dirt and screen. Normally, trekking shoes are the only footwear needed for this section. Camp 2 (23,000') is on the upper glacier plateau. Between 1 and 2 is a section known as the Ice Cliff. This steep ice climbing part is equipped with fixed rope and requires some steep front pointing. Camp 3 is at about 24,400' and located on a gentle slope. Above the summit day climbs through some easy rock bands (normally fixed) to the broad summit.

Cost?

Royalty fees etc.- Refer to the notes on expedition costs.
 

Cost included : Hotel accommodation in Kathmandu (as per itinerary, 3 star rating standard, B&B, twin share basis), airport transfers, full compliment of trekking crew, all meals while on trek (except alternative by choice), all necessary camping gear (including sleeping bag, down jacket), overland transportation, National Park Fees, trekking crew insurance, emergency first aid kit.
 

Cost not included : Extra hotel expenses, single room supplement where requested, any personal expenses (bottled soft drinks, telephone charges, video/camera fees, etc.), domestic and international airfares, medical costs (except medical attention given by trek leader), rescue charges, tips for crew (typically around NRp100 per trekking day), airport departure tax (currently NRp1100 for international destinations), Visas and visa extension costs, lunch and evening meals while in Kathmandu (except Namaste meal on first night). Any additional costs not included in quote.

Day 01 : Arrive in Kathmandu (1336m). You will be met by your group leader and transferred to the hotel where the pre-trek briefing will be given. Arrangements are made today for the distribution of your kit bag, sleeping bag and down jacket. Remainder of the afternoon is at your leisure.

Day 02 : Day at leisure in Kathmandu. You have time to explore Kathmandu, Patan, Bhaktapur and the lessor known towns that dot the valley. The area has an amazing range of fascinating highlights, whatever your interest. Excellent bookshops, extensive markets, novelty shops and handicraft shops contrast with fantastic centres of cultural and spiritual significance. Kathmandu has more World heritage sites than any other city in the world. A sightseeing tour is organised for your benefit.

Days 3 to 43 "A" and 3 to 33 "B" : Trekking programme as per itinerary above.

Day 44 (A); 34 (B): Day at leisure in Kathmandu : There are a million things to see in Kathmandu and we recommend you spend this day wandering around the town and exploring the valley on bicycle or by taxi. The old Royal Palace, Durbar Square, Swayambhunath (the Monkey Temple), Pashupatinath (a major Hindu shrine) and the giant Buddhist Stupa at Bodnath are absolute musts. Our staff can help you with arrangements or provide a guide and/or transport should you wish, or you can head off armed with a map and let the day unfold. An optional Rock-climbing activity can be organised for those who are interested - an additional cost will be incurred for this option.

Day 45 (A); 35 (B) : Trip concludes in Kathmandu. After breakfast, arrangements cease unless further arrangements have been made. Those people travelling by aircraft to further destinations will be transferred to the airport and assisted with check-in procedures. Don't forget to have NRp1000 departure tax available for payment at the airport.

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Note : The above itinerary and times are a guide only. The itinerary may change at any time due to weather and/or trail conditions or for any other reason deemed necessary by the trek leader. Your Leader will always make the final decision after assessing the situation and consulting with our Nepali crew and the group members. Trekking times are estimated only but have been calculated to give the trekker a comfortable pace throughout the trek.