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Mt. Pumori |
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Autumn/Spring -
2008
08 April 2008
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Pumori Ascend – More
information
The ascent starts at 5,300m. In a beautiful base camp
aside a small lake (water source, take water filters or
barrels - where you can pack your equipment- and to
clarificate the water -let sand to drop all night-).
From base camp you have the most wonderful sight of Mt.
Everest you can imagine, just above is Kalapattar Rock
hill at 5545m.
After a 3 hrs walk (loaded) trough an easy hike terrain
you will reach camp 1 or advanced base camp 5700m. To
let your equipment and supply nearby. After this you
will face a 500m. Elevation difference trough a 40 to 65
degrees slopes, 100m. Horizontal traverse, steep and
expose to wind narrow ridges, some 5m. Ice wall, one
tunnel climb. Pumori has many rock and mixed climb (not
to need rock pitons but take some in case for the fixed
rope) and spring might be more rock falling. If you have
good Sherpa, Could be good for spring season.
Camp 2- 6200m. Is located on a narrow ridge at the end
of the section described before. Expose to wind and far
from avalanches (but people say it has happened before
that avalanches reach camp 2) the next 400m. Is an ice
climb with 35-65 degrees, more 5m. Ice walls, many
crevasses, and the bigger avalanche danger from big
seracs hanging from the shoulder 6500m.
The shoulder can be camp 3, but is too windy and not
much gain. From here you cans see Tibet. After this it
is presume that the rest is a wide ridge that takes you
to a not hidden summit, but like I told you, You still
need rope here because of many crevasses, Ice walls.
Finally, at 6,850m, there is an enormous crevasse 200m
large, 40m. Deep, 10-20m wide. Try to walk towards Tibet
side where the crevasses ended just before a great
cliff, but in the other side the snow two-layer
difference for avalanche danger. You can try Nepal side
and you can reach the beautiful famous Pumori cliff and
crossed the crevasse. After this the walk to the summit
is only walk & you can summit Pumori 7145m.
Normal route: This is the easiest route to climb this
peak and most of the expedition climbed this peak so far
have used this route. As you know Pumori is not easy as
like other mountains, there are technical parts in this
route as well. We suggest you, you have take climbing
Sherpa and who will take to Summit. We can arrange for
you summiter Sherpas for the Pumori, if you have
required.
You need to have at least 3 camps after base camp to
reach the summit. The base camp is just above Gorekshep
at the altitude of 5300m. After base camp, you can set
up first camp at the altitude of 5,650m. Around the
phase of Pumori.
We set second camp at the ridge after the phase at the
altitude of 6,000m. The most technical part for this
peak is around camp 1 and 2. We set camp third at the
altitude of 6,480m. Around the corner after the ridge.
We/you can summit from the third camp to the top. This
route has been used by former expedition to Pumori in
every year.
South-West ridge: Only few climbers tried this route, as
this is one of the most difficult routes. This route
follows directly from the top of Kalapatar and goes
straight over the ridge nearly 75 Degree. As this route
has lots of technical, I recommend you to use the normal
route for the Pumori and you & your group will reach the
Top. If you need more information please check Himalayan
Journal 1996 or American Alpine Journal 1997. In this
book written by Climber of Pumori who have been summit.
They Sumitted by normal route. |
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About
Mt. Pumori Itinerary in Detail |
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Itinerary 01 |
Day 01 :
Arrival Kathmandu & transfer to Hotel |
Day 02-03 :
KTM official work & preparation for expedition |
Day 04 :
Flight to Lukla & trek to Phakding lodge |
Day 05 :
Phakding to Namche lodge |
Day 06 :
Namche rest for acclimatization lodge |
Day 07 :
Namche – Thyanboche lodge |
Day 08 :
Thyangboche – Pheriche lodge |
Day 09 :
Pheriche – Lobuche lodge |
Day 10 :
Lobuche – Pumori Base Camp - Camping |
Day 11-28 :
Climbing Period for Pumori 7145m. (Camping) |
Day 29 :
Pumori BC – Pangboche -Lodge |
Day 30 :
Pangboche – Namche -Lodge |
Day 31 :
Namrung – Syalla village |
Day 32 :
Fly Lukla – Kathmandu & transfer hotel |
Day 33-34 :
Kathmandu |
Day 35 :
final departures |
Day 35 :
Climbing Period for Manaslu 8163m. |
Royalty for 1- 7 member, Total
US$ 3000.00
Additional member each US$ 400.00 (Up to 5
Person)
Garbage Deposit per team USD 2000.00 |
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Cost?
Refer to notes on
regulations for Peak Climbing
Expeditions.
Cost included :
• Permit Fee (Royalty) of Pumori
• Hotel accommodation in Kathmandu
Maximum 6 nights with bed & breakfast
• Kathmandu – Lukla – Kathmandu flight
tickets & cargo of equipment
• Full board trekking with lodge & Food
for BC Expedition period
• Porter or Yak Lukla to BC & while back
to Lukla
• Equipment: trekking equipment for Base
Camp, 2 men tent, dining tent, toilet
tent, table and chares, Mattresses
• All kitchen equipment for Base Camp
• Liaison office allowances ,equipment
allowances for staff, flight ticket,
insurance for Nepalese staffs, Officer
during the expedition period
• Permit and National park fees
• All transfer airport-hotel-airport
• Staff: Base camp Guide, Cook, Kitchen
helper, Necessary porters or Yak
• All necessary taxes.
• Agency service charge
Cost not included :
• Lunch and dinner in
Kathmandu
• High altitude (climbing) food, fuel,
Gas above BC & personal climbing gear
• Personal accident insurance and
emergency evacuation, Helicopter rescue
• International Airport Departure Tax
• Nepal custom duty for import of
expedition goods arriving into Nepal,
cargo.
• Bar bills
• Satellite phone and Waki takies
• Extra expenses for personal
• Oxygen and Mask regulator
• Climbing Sherpa |
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