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Teiji Festival at
Mustang 13-15 May 2008: |
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Trek type: Camping
Trek Grade: Challenging
Duration: Trek 22 day (13 days trekking)
Activities: Trekking, camping,
sightseeing
Best time to go: May
Departure dates: As per itinerary below
The region of Mustang
has long, rich and complex history that
makes it one of the most interesting
places in Nepal. The early |
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history of Lo is shrouded in legend,
myth and mystery, but there are
records of events in Lo as early as the 8h century. It
is quite likely that the Tibetan poet Milarepa, who
lived from 1040 to 1123, visited Lo Upper Mustang was
once part of Ngari, a name for far westen Tibet. Ngari
was not a true political entity, but rather a loose
collection of feudal domains that also included part of
Dolpa. By the fourteenth century much of Ngari, as well
as most of what today is western Nepal, was part of the
Malla empire government from Sinja.
It is generally believed that Ame Pal (A-ma-dpal) was
the founder King of Lo in 1380. The ancestry of the
present Mustang Raja can be traced 25 generation back to
Ame Pal . Ame Pal, or perhaps his father conquered a
large part of the territory in the upper Kali Gandaki
and was responsible for the development of the city of
Lo Mantahng and many Gompas.
To the west, The Malla empire declined and become split
into numerous petty hill States. By the18th century,
Jumla had consolidated and reasserted its power. In an
effort to develop itself as a trading center and to
obtain Tibetan goods, Jumla turned its attention
eastward and in the mid 18th century assumed control
over Lo, from which it extracted an annual tribute. When
he ascended the throne in 1762, Prithvi Narayan Shah
began to consolidate what is present day Nepal. At the
time of his death, the kingdom extended from Gorkha
eastward to the borders of Sikkim. His descendants
directed their efforts westward and by1789, Jumla had
been annexed. The Gorkha armies never actually entered
Lo; they recognized the rule of the Mustang Raja and,
although Mustang became part of Nepal, the Raja retained
his title and Lo retained a certain amount of autonomy.
Lo maintained its status as a separarate principality
until 1951. After the Rana rulers were overthrown in
November, 1950 and King Tribhuwan reestablished the rule
of the Shah monarchs, Lo was more closely consolidated
into Nepal. The Raja was given the honorary rank of
colonel in the Nepal army.
RECENT HISTORY
During the 1960's, after the Dalai Lama had fled to
India and Chinese armies established control over Tibet,
Mustang was a centre for guerrilla operations against
the Chinese. The soldiers were the Khampas, Tibet's most
fearsome warriors. They had the backing of the CIA; some
Khampas were secretly trained in America. At the height
of the fighting there were at least 6,000 Khampas in
Mustang and neighboring border areas. The CIA's support
ended in the early 1970's when the US, under Kissinger
and Nixon, initiated new and better relations with the
Chinese. The government of Nepal was pressed to take
action against the guerrillas, and making use of
internal divisions within the Khampas leadership, abit
of treachery, and the Dalai Lama's taped advice for his
countrymen to lay down their arms, it managed to disband
the resistance without committing to action the10,000
Royal Nepal Army troops that it had sent to the area.
Though Mustang was closed, the government allowed a few
researchers into the area. Toni Hagen included Mustang
in his survey of the entire kingdom of Nepal, and the
Italian scholar Giuseppi Tucci visited in the autumn of
1952. Professor David Snellgrove travelled to the region
in 1956 but did not visit Lo Manthang. Longtime Nepal
resident Barbara Admas travelled to Mustang during the
autumn of 1963. The most complete description of the
area is Mustang, the Forbidden Kingdom written by Michel
Peissel who spent several months in the area in the
spring of 1964. Dr, Harka Bahadur Gurung also visited
and wrote about upper Mustang in October 1973. A number
of groups legally travelled to upper Mustang during the
1980's by obtaining permits to climb Bhrikuti Peak 6364
meters, which is located southeast of Lo Manthang. Other
than a few special royal guests, the first legal
trekkers were allowed into Mustang in March 1992 upon
payment of USD 500 per week for a special trekking
permit.
RELIGION
The form of Tibetan Buddhism practised in Mustang is
primarily that of the Sakyapa sect. This sect was
established at Sakya Monastery in Tibet and dates from
1073. The Sakyapa sect is more worldly and practical in
outlook and is less concerned with metaphysics than the
more predominant Nyingmapa and Geluppa sects. Sakya
Monastery is unique for its horizontal grey, white and
yellow stripes on its red walls, an identifying feature
of Sakyapa structures. Most chortens and gompas in Lo
are painted in these colors that reflect the surrounding
hills.
THE LAND OF LO
The trek to Lo is through an almost treeless barren
landscape. Strong winds usually howl across the area in
the afternoon, generally subsiding at night. Being in
the rain shadow of the Himalaya, Lo has much less rain
than the rest of Nepal, though the skies are cloudy and
there is some rain during the monsoon. In the winter
there is usually snow, sometimes as much as 30 or40
centimetres on the ground. In Lo itself the countryside
is similar to the Tibetan plateau with its endless
expanses of yellow and grey rolling hills eroded by
wind. There is more rain in the lower part of upper
Mustang and the hills tend to be great red fluted cliffs
of tiny round stones cemented together by mud. Villages
are several hours apart and appear in the distance
almost as mirages; during the summer season, after the
crops are planted, they are green oases in the
desert-like landscape. House and temple construction
throughout the region uses some stone but mostly
sun-baked bricks of mud. Astonishing edifices, such as
the city wall and the 4-story palace in Lo Manthang, are
built in this manner. It is said that there were once
large forests in Lo, but now wood for construction is
hauled ll all the way from Jomosom or pruned from Pipal
trees that are carefully planted in every village. The
people of upper Mustang call themselves Lobas,. To be
strictly correct, this word would be spelled "Lopa",
meaning "Lo People", in the same way as Sherpa, which
means "east Nepal," of Khampa, which means "Kham
People". The people of Lo: probably because of regional
dialect, pronounce the word with a definite B sound
instead of the P sound that the Sherpas and Khampas use.
I will follow Lo tradition and spell the word as it is
pronounced : Loba : most anthropological texts, however,
disagree with this. |
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About
Teiji Festival at Mustang Itinerary in Detail |
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Itinerary |
Day 01 :
May 05, 2008
: Arrival at Kathmandu and transfer
to Hotel Marsyangdi (3 Star) |
Day 02 :
May 06, 2008
: Preparation for trekking/
Sightseeing o/n at hotel. |
Day 03 :
May 07, 2008
: (Kathmandu/Pokhara) Fly to Pokhara
and overnight at Pokhara Mount Resort. |
Day 04 :
May 08, 2008
: (Pokhara/Jomosom) Early flight to
Jomosom and trek to Kagbeni. This day is an easy
day hike to Kagbeni along the Kaligandaki river.
Today there is not much of climb up and down
mostly gradual up to Kagbeni. |
Day 05 :
May 09, 2008
: (Kagbeni/Chele) The trail takes
you up the east bank of Kali Gandagi that climbs
over many ridges as it heads north. In the dry
season, it is possible to trek the entire route
up the river along the sand and gravel of the
riverbed. |
Day 06 :
May 10, 2008
: (Chele/Geling) The climb from
Chele is up a steep spur to a cairn at 3130
metres. Here there is view of the village of
Gyagar across a huge canyon. A long wall of
packed earth encircles Gyagar and its field. The
climb continue, as long, steep, treeless,
waterless slog, along the side of the
spectacular steep canyon to a pass and cairn of
rocks at 3540 metres. Here the trails makes a
long gradual descent to some chorten on ridge,
then descends further on a pleasant trail to
samer. Climb above Samar to a ridge then descend
into a large gorge past chorten painted in red,
black,yellow and white. Along the way the
Annapurna himal still visible far to the south.
From here you will descend to Geling with its
extensive field of barley at 3600 metres. |
Day 07 :
May 11, 2008
: (Geling/Charang) From Geling , the
trail climbs gently through fields up the center
of the valley, passing below the settlement of
Tama Gaun and an imposing chorten. It rejoin the
direct trail and then becomes an unrelenting
climb across the head of the valley to the Nyi
La pass at 3950 metres, the highest point
reached on the trek. Cherang is a maze of field,
willow trees and house separated by stone walls
at the top of the large Charang Cho canyon. The
huge 5 story white zdong and red gompa are
perched on the edge of the Kali Gandaki gorge on
the east end of the valley. Near the Gompa is
the house of Maya Bista which, if you have the
nerve to get past the ferocious mastiff at the
door, doubles as a hotel and restaurant. The
village has its own electricity system. |
Day 08 :
May 12, 2008
: (Charanbg/Lo Manthang) The trail
descends about 100 metres from Charang, crosses
the Charang Chu and climbs steeply up a rocky
trail to a cairn on a ridge opposite the village
at 3580 metres, then enters the Thulung valley.
The trail turns north and climbs gently as the
valley climbs to a large isolated chorten that
marks the boundary between Charang and Lo. Still
climbing , the trail crosses stream, then
becomes a grand wide thoroughfare travelling
across a desert-like landscape painted in every
hue of grey and yellow. Finally from a ridge at
3850 metres, there is a view of the walled city
of Lo. |
Day 09 :
May 13, 2008
: (Teiji Festival Starts) Day in (Lo
Manthang.) There are four major temples within
the city wall of Lo Manthang. Each of these
buildings is locked. The villager feel it
necessary to control access to the temples: the
caretaker and the key are available only at
certain times, and usually only after a bit
negotiation you may be able to enter in side of
the
Gompas. |
Day 10 :
May 14, 2008
: (Teiji Festival) Day in (Lo
Manthang.) There are lot to do in Lo Manthang
beside visiting the Gompas. Consider renting a
horse to visit some of the other village in the
area. |
Day 11 :
May 15, 2008
: (Teiji Festival) Day in (Lo
Manthang) This day is either free day or explore
further to north of Lo Manthang depending
weather and physical condition. |
Day 12 :
May 16 2008
: Trek to Luri Gumba ( 3450m) o/n
camp B/L/D |
Day 13 :
May 17 2008
: Trek to Yara ( Tange) 3200m) o/n
camp B/L/D |
Day 14 :
May 18 2008
: Trek to Tetang (2940m) o/n camp
B/L/D |
Day 15 :
May 19 2008
: Trek to Muktinath (3750m) o/n camp
B/L/D |
Day 16 :
May 20, 2008
: Day in Muktinath o/n camp B/L/D |
Day 17 :
May 21, 2008
: (Muktinath-Kagbeni/Jomosom): You
will reach Jomosom by lunch and rest of the day
will be free. |
Day 18 :
May 22, 2008
: (Jomosom/Pokhara): Fly early in
the morning to Pokhara and transfer to hotel. |
Day 19 :
May 23, 2008
: Sightseeing of Pokhara and o/n at
hotel. |
Day 20 :
May 24, 2008
: Fly to Kathmandu |
Day 21 :
May 25, 2008
: Free day/optional sightseeing |
Day 22 :
May 26, 2008
: Departure transfer to the airport
for onward destination. |
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Cost :
US $ 2432.00 per person.
Cost included :
Special Trekking permit and
National park fee, 13 day camping trek
with all camping gear and kitchen
equipment, English spoken guide, kitchen
staffs, necessary porters, Foods:
Breakfast, lunch, Snacks and Dinner, 5
nights 3 star hotel in Kathmandu and 3
nights 2 star hotel in Pokhara on BB
plan, round trip air ticket Kathmandu -
pokhara -Jomsom - Pokhara - Kathmandu,
one full day city tours in Kathmandu
with culture guide and necessary land
transportation, Medical kit, Porter
equipment including clothes, shoe etc.,
insurance of all trekking crews,
domestic airport tax.
Cost not included :
Bar Bills, drinks, personal nature
expenses, health and travel insurance,
rescue charge if applicable, any
expenses of Kathmandu and Pokhara except
sightseeing and accommodation on BB plan
and tips. |
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Reservation |
Inquiry |
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The above itinerary and times
are a guide only. The itinerary may change at
any time due to weather and/or trail conditions
or for any other reason deemed necessary by the
trek leader. Your Leader will always make the
final decision after assessing the situation and
consulting with our Nepali crew and the group
members. Trekking times are estimated only but
have been calculated to give the trekker a
comfortable pace throughout the trek. |
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